Trip Details

Climbing Difficulty and Grade- USA 5.6 or a British V.S or a South African 16

Best Time of Year- December-March

Distance to the Summit– 39kms

Longest Trekking day- 6-7hours

Climbing time for the ascent of Nelion- 4-6hours, extra time to Batian - 4hours

Descent time- 5-7 hrs

Altitude at the Start of the trek- 2700m, 8,860ft

Altitude at the Summit- 5,199m, 17,057ft Summit- Batian

The Trek Up
The route you choose up to the Austrian Hut where you would start your climb is totally up to you as there is little difference in duration.
-The trek up the Chogoria route followed by the technical climb and descent via the Naro Moru route would be about 7 days.
-The trek up the Timau route with one day to climb the peaks followed by the descent off the Naro Moru route can be done in 6 days.

Both routes are very scenic, and offer a good acclimatization profile.

More about the Climb

The normal route to Nelion is attempted via the southern side of Mount Kenya, and is best accessed from Austrian hut. It is an early start. After crossing the boulder field at the foot of the Lewis Glacier with head torches on, you scramble up the scree to the base of the climb. The first part of the climb can be hard as a result of the cold, and the daunting long day ahead. Generally you have completed the first 2 pitches before first light.

Once the sun comes out, and your muscles are nice and warm, the climbing becomes even more enjoyable. As you work through the pitches you will pass famous features such as “One O’clock Gully”, “The Amphitheatre” and “De Graaf’s Variation,” which present a good mix of easy and more challenging climbing. “Baillie’s Bivvy,” a disused hut, can be considered the half-way point on this spectacular route. The summit of Nelion is generally reached in 6-8 hours.

Howell Hut, on the summit of Nelion, can be used as an overnight bivvy should the group be interested in crossing over to Batian. The crossing via the “Gate of the Mists,” involves dropping some 35m off Nelion and climbing a further 70m to the summit of Batian. The estimated time to do the crossing and return to Nelion is 3-4 hours – this is variable, and totally dependent on ice levels within the “Gate of the Mists”. A night in Howell prior to descending the following morning is an option, however, if you move fast the climb and descent is best done in a single day. Your guide will provide advice, and help with these decisions prior to, and during the climb.

Whilst living in Kenya as a coffee farmer, Eric Shipton managed to do a lot of climbing in his free time. Climbing with Percy Wyn-Harris, he pioneered this route in 1929. This was the first ascent of Nelion. Shipton logged many first ascents on Mount Kenya, and later went on to lead many expeditions and reconnaissance trips on Everest and other Himalayan peaks. The route has accumulated a rich history since that first ascent. During your trip be sure to have a chat with your guide about some of the other notorious climbers, and their exploits on Mount Kenya.