Description

Single and Multi-pitch rock climbing for Novice climbers to Advanced climbers

The Northern end of the Aberdares range has some of the most unique rock features in Kenya. The area is in the 3000m above sea level range and is considered high altitude, this is the moorland zone. Throughout this moorland are unique induvial crags jutting out of the ground. The unique rock has some fantastic climbing like no other in Kenya. One crag, that has been established by members of the Mountain Club of Kenya and African Ascents, is known as Dragons Teeth. The name taken from the jaw like curved shape of the crag and it jagged edges.

The crag has both single and multi-pitch climbing on offer with a broad range of difficulties. This an ideal training ground for climbing groups interested in gaining multi pitch climbing experience. Equally many routes provide a challenge to even the most experienced climber and there are routes waiting to be discovered.

Dragons teeth is the most amazing climbing location in the most unique environment. Coupled with the altitude this is the perfect training ground for a big assault on Mt Kenya’s main peaks of Batian and Nelion.

Journey Highlights

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Day 1: TWIN PEAKS TO DRAGONS TEETH

Afternoon climbing session

The drive to Shamata Gate to access the Aberdares National park is about 3 to 4 hours from Nairobi, you should aim to get an early start. Once park fees have been finalised you will head into the National park to Twin Peaks where the vehicles will be left.

There is a 2-hour approach to Dragons Teeth, generally there is enough time on the late afternoon for an introduction the rock type here. There is a nice single pitch area with a gradual abseil on Gino Crag.

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Day 2: DRAGONS TEETH

Full day climbing

It’s always a cold start to the day at Dragons Teeth camp. After a strong coffee and a good breakfast, it’s time to find the sun. The pick of the multi pitch climbing is on the western face with routes like ‘Blotched Route Canal’ and ‘Alex’s Incisor’. Beginner groups generally get an introduction to Multi pitch climbing on the easier Gino Crag before tackling the bigger climbs.

The days programme is open to a variety of options and should be discussed with the guide. Be warned that if the weather does pull in it is generally in the afternoon. Aim to achieve as much as possible in the morning.

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Day 3: DRAGONS TEETH TO TWIN PEAKS

Morning climbing session

An early start is best to make the most of the morning. In general, we aim to get a multi pitch route done before packing up and moving out. The trek back to the cars doesn’t take as long as the packs are lighter and your moving downhill. We aim to have you back at the cars by 2pm to allow for the drive back to Nairobi in the day light.

 

Set Departures

There are currently no Set Departures for this expedition, please email us at: info@africanascents.com

Service

ACCOMMODATION

The Aberdares is camping only. Depending on the package you go for, either a porter team or yourselves will be required to carry in your tent, food and personal gear. African Ascents will provide a mess tent, stove and fuel, and toilet facilities which will be carried by our camp staff.

The camp staff will be on hand to help prepare meals, tidy up the camp and collect water and firewood.

Depending on the package you are on, you will need to bring and prepare your meals.

GUIDES AND PORTERS

Guide – Due to the nature of Multi Pitch climbing we work on a 1 guide to 2 client ratios.

Porters – As this is a short trip we generally do not provide a full porter team. We take a camp team who will take the camp mess tent, some chairs, a stove and toilet facilities. You will be required to carry your personal items including tent.

The camp staff will set up the camp and collect water and firewood for the group.

EQUIPMENT

African Ascents provides all technical climbing equipment. All you need are your personal items. If you have any of your own climbing equipment please let us know so the we can prepare accordingly.

You will receive a recommended packing list for the trip. This list is based largely on our Mt Kenya Gear list as the environments are similar.

GETTING THERE

 Distance: 145 Kms (2 hrs 30 mins to Ol Kalou)

 From Nairobi City travel west on Waiyaki Way

Pass the Delamere shopping center and service station near Naivasha after approximately 85 kms

After a further 20 kms turn right in towards Gilgil town, once in Gilgil town turn right towards Pembroke School and Ol Kalou

Continue 30 kms to Ol Kalou

This is where you will meet the African Ascents Team or a representative of the Kenya Wildlife Service, they will guide you in to Shamata Gate

Once at the Shamata Gate there are some formalities to be completed, it is then a short drive up to Twin Peaks and the road head

Packages

This trip is available as part of the Fit for Mt Kenya Challenge. The Fit for Mt Kenya Challenge features as a Mt Kenya technical summit package, it is a training programme to summit the technical peaks of Batian and Nelion on Mt Kenya.

Every mountain top is within reach if you just keep climbing.

African Ascents are partners with

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wildlife kenya
iolaus
ragati
mck